Fall may be around the corner, but for New York’s Fashion Week, spring has sprung. This past week, from Sept. 6 to 11, designers took to the city to reveal 2020 Spring/Summer collections. Shows are primarily held at Spring Studios in TriBeCa, but many designers often find “little hideaways” that are better suited to host their collections.
To recap this wild week for those of you who missed it, here is a breakdown of some of the most inclusive, inspirational and expressive shows that have taken place all across New York.
1. JEREMY SCOTT
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Jeremy Scott
DATE: Sept. 6, 2019
LOCATION: GALLERY 1 AT Studio Springs
Jeremy Scott did not hold back on any aspect of this collection; from the hair to the makeup, to the outfits, it was like stepping directly into the ‘80s. Everything was bold, bright and bulky. The voluminous plastic jewelry accented the dramatic troll-like hair that ranged in a variety of neon and pastel colors. Metallic boots were paired with nearly every outfit, adding dramatic touches to already over-the-top outfits. The show-stopping makeup was made possible by Kabuki, a makeup artist who paired with Scott and MAC Cosmetics to bring a flamboyant display of cat-eye inspired looks to the runway. With the focus being on the cat-eye, the rest of the makeup resembled a more subtle and natural look, complementing not only the eyes, but the outfits too. You can view more pieces from the collection, here.
2. KATE SPADE
Credit: Alessandro Lucioni
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Nicola Glass
DATE: Sept. 7, 2019
LOCATION: Elizabeth Street Garden
When it first came out that one of the focuses on Kate Spade SS20 collection was spring florals, the Meryl Streep “Groundbreaking” eye roll from “The Devil Wears Prada” was the first thing to pop into mind. However, after viewing the collection and seeing the setup of the show, it truly was a groundbreaking performance. Models walked the stage at the breathtaking Elizabeth Street Garden, where the runway was lined with pastel pink chairs for the audience.
Following the June 2018 death of founder Katherine Spade, Nicola Glass took over as creative director of the company. The stated theme of this collection as described by Glass is “urban safari” and is a mix of leafy prints, florals and khaki. Many of the models who walked incorporated nature into their pieces by carrying various large plants with them. This further symbolized a “blossoming where you are planted” idea that went hand in hand with this year’s theme. While there were mildly noticeable differences in the two creative styles, it was pleasurable to see that Glass still incorporated older themes in a somewhat-remembrance of Kate Spade. See more of the collection here.
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Becca McCharen-Tran
DATE: Sept. 7, 2019
LOCATION: GALLERY 1 at Studio Springs
Swimsuit and bodywear company, Chromat, kicked off the 10th anniversary at NYFW by mixing in some popular details from previous collections. Among a few of the fan favorites include the architectural cage, which has become a signature of Chromat. In addition to a redesign of the Spring ’19 “Sample Size” T-shirt. Models of all shapes, sizes and backgrounds made their way down the catwalk sporting various pieces. This collection was inspired by NASA and underwater astronaut training, according to creative director Becca McCharen-Tran. This show not only featured jaw-dropping pieces, but it illustrated a shift in the fashion world and the transformation of beauty standards.
Ericka Hart, model and breast cancer survivor who had a double mastectomy in 2014, stole the show when she rocked the runway in one of the revised signature cages with complementing white eye makeup. The show concluded with a performance from Rico Nasty and a mini dance party from the models. You can see the rest of the incredible creations here.
4. TOMMY HILFIGER X ZENDAYA
Credit: Victor Virgile
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Tommy Hilfiger, Zendaya
DATE: Sept. 8, 2019
LOCATION: Apollo Theater in Harlem
Tommy Hilfiger and Zendaya are back again with their second collection, and this time one of the focuses of the show was celebrating black womanhood. Both Hilfiger and Zendaya have been incredibly open about their “for everyone” mindset, meaning that they are not only body inclusive but economically inclusive as well. “I want everyone to wear my clothes,” Hilfiger has said multiple times in the past. This collection is heavily inspired by the ‘70s, showcasing velvet suits, leather pants, wide-brim hats and fur coats. Like many other shows this week, the collection included elements of animal print, leather and metallics. In addition, the setting showcased classic American cars, velvet couches, spotlights, music and more, truly capturing Harlem in the ‘70s.
The collection was part of “TOMMYNOW” meaning that it is a “see now buy now” collection which was made available to the public immediately following the show; you can shop the collection here.
5. TOM FORD
Kaia Gerber on the catwalk
Tom Ford show, Runway, Spring Summer 2020, New York Fashion Week, USA – 09 Sep 2019
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Tom Ford
DATE: Sept. 9, 2019
LOCATION: Bowery Subway Station
Tom Ford took a simplistic, not simple, approach to his SS20 collection. The theme of this collection was sporty, with a twist on conventional style leather jackets and pleated pants. The atmosphere of this show was very late-night-party which was easily noted by attire, makeup and attitude of the models as they glided down the runway. Keeping up with the current trends of the week, it was no surprise that metallic and neon colors made a statement appearance. Pieces in this collection range from tight, bold crop tops, tailored men’s suits as well as free-flowing pants and skirts. Model Kaia Gerber, the muse for Ford’s collection walked the runway in a nude satin blazer, with black hot pants, which alone perfectly capture women’s fashion from the ‘70s. Catch up on the rest of the collection here.
6. SAVAGE X FENTY
Credit: Courtesy of Fenty
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Rihanna
DATE: Sept. 10, 2019
LOCATION: Barclay Center in Brooklyn
Being the most anticipated show of the week comes with a certain amount of pressure. There is no better way to kick that feeling to the curb than by opening the show with the creator herself, which is exactly what Rihanna did. The singer, songwriter and fashion designer was back with her second collection of SAVAGE X FENTY, a lingerie company that she started herself in May 2018. This private event was invitation only and did not permit guests to use their phones, in order for nothing to be revealed to the public. Rihanna paired with Amazon and will be streaming the show for Prime members next week. Performances at the show included Halsey, Big Sean, A$AP Ferg, Fabulous and a few others.
WATCH THE EVENT ON AMAZON PRIME BEGINNING SEPT. 20.
7. MICHAEL KORS
Credit: Alessandro Lucioni
CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Michael Kors
DATE: Sept. 11, 2019
LOCATION: Warehouse in Brooklyn Navy Yard
Wrapping up New York Fashion Week, designer Michael Kors took the runway Wednesday morning with looks inspired by immigration and America in the ‘40s. Kors is a grandchild of immigrants and used his history and background to bring this collection to life. The collection included shades of reds, blues and whites with patterns of cherries and lemons. Tying themes of the past and present led Kors to reconstruct traditional attire of nip-waist dresses and pleated pants with studded metals to give punk aspects to each piece. The Young People’s Chorus of New York City was in attendance, performing hit songs by Simon & Garfunkel and Don McLean. You can see the entire collection, here.
New York’s fashion week may be over, however, the fun is just getting started. Keep up with London’s fashion week kicking off Friday, Sept. 13 with a Catwalk event by Mark Fast, a designer who works with celebrities including Nicki Minaj, Jessie J., Cardi B and many others. London Fashion Week will run until Sept. 17. Milan Fashion Week is Sept. 17 through 23. Paris Fashion Week will run from Sept. 23 until Oct. 1. Wrapping up Paris Fashion Week and the season is a 6:30 p.m. show by Louis Vuitton.